Category: Food & Drink
City Kitchen: Swirling Spring in With the Noodles
On April 20, 2018 by MargotPhoto Peas, pancetta and green garlic shoots make this pasta dish a spring favorite in the making. Credit Karsten Moran for The New York Times Some cooks make the same red-sauce spaghetti all year round, and there’s nothing wrong with that. A beloved tradition shouldn’t be abandoned for the sake of variety, and, in my
A Good Appetite: A Tart Solution for Sweet Crumb Cake
On April 20, 2018 by MargotPhoto The addition of grapefruit pulls crumb cake back from the brink of cloying sweetness. Credit Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times With easy-to-peel satsumas, seedless clementines and scarlet blood oranges all available to satisfy citrus yearnings, it can be hard to remember to give grapefruits their due. Even when I do think to
Front Burner: Get a Workout With a New Dutch Oven
On April 20, 2018 by MargotPhoto The “F” on the brass handle is for Finex, but you can claim it for your own if your name is Fred, or Faye … or Florence. Credit Sonny Figueroa/The New York Times Cast-iron cookware is in the spotlight. Having started with skillets, producers are now introducing Dutch ovens. Despite already owning pots from
Last of the Newsies?
On April 20, 2018 by Margot“So many hurricanes I can remember,” he said with a rueful chuckle. “Three hundred and 65 days, without fail.” He has an uneasy relationship with this White House, which has alternately welcomed and shunned him; the current administration has restricted entry to a foyer where Mr. Singh would shelter on the coldest and wettest nights.
Hungry City: At Ho Foods, a Noodle Soup That Nourishes and Transports
On April 19, 2018 by MargotOne more choice: Two types of wheat noodles in wide flat bands or thick cords. The thick ones are closer to the Taiwanese ideal of QQ, chewy-chewy. (Mr. Ho said diplomatically, “Mom likes one; Dad likes the other.”) Alongside the soup comes a ramekin of suan cai, pickled mustard greens that Mr. Ho sautés with
The Pour: A New Restaurant, Frenchette, Stands Up for Natural Wines
On April 19, 2018 by MargotMany of the 300 bottles or so on the list may indeed be distinctive and excellent, but they are also relentlessly obscure, with characteristics that some people may find surprising, and occasionally even appalling. Rather than lard the list with expensive wines, as so many high-end restaurants do, Frenchette has devoted much of its lineup
Boîte: Straylight, an Art Bar in Chinatown, Opens in the Shadow of Le Baron
On April 19, 2018 by MargotBack in 2012, when the jet-setter franchise Le Baron planted three floors of Parisian cool and a garrote-like velvet rope on a sleepy curl of Chinatown, many people assumed New York night life was entering an era of glamour amid Gitanes smoke. It closed three summers later. Straylight, a cocktail bar below a Japanese restaurant
Front Burner: Even the Gelato Is Infused With Mezcal at Claro
On April 19, 2018 by MargotIt makes sense for a restaurant that specializes in the food of Oaxaca to feature mezcal, the smoky agave-based spirit that dominates the region. At Claro in Brooklyn, T. J. Steele, the chef and an owner of the restaurant, also has a brand of mezcal, El Buho. He has worked with Il Laboratorio del Gelato
Heads Up: Sedona for Serenity, Spas and Now Syrahs
On April 18, 2018 by MargotThe road to Page Springs Cellars near Sedona in central Arizona dips and rolls over the highland desert terrain, a stony, shrub-dotted landscape terminating amid more unexpected flora, grapevines. On a recent afternoon in its busy riverside tasting room, I found the winery’s owner, Eric Glomski, popping the cork on a malvasia bianca with surprising
What to Cook: Cooking Without Recipes
On April 18, 2018 by MargotToo much stirring? I get that, too. It’s Wednesday night, and you still haven’t finished reading “A Higher Loyalty.” Make Nigella Lawson’s recipe for an absurdly easy pea soup (above) and then get it done. Or you could heat some good canned tomatoes with a lot of butter and an onion, cooking in the style
